Showing posts with label Tweed jacket. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tweed jacket. Show all posts

Season Six Tweed jacket –A trio of Tweeds!

I’ve been working very hard the past few weeks, and here is the results of my labours!


Back in May I made a Prototype Tweed Jacket using the screen-used Shetland Tweed Fabric.

Since then I have radically revised my pattern; solved some issues I had with construction; and now made a couple of new jackets which I am pretty happy with.

I’ll post some detail pictures of them soon, along with some background as to how I cut and made my jacket.

Matt’s been framed!

I’ve been spending quite a bit of my time recently making Tweed Jacket!

As a result I have been back and forth to W Bill in London a few times now, and have gotten to know Ray Hammett, who I deal with a lot, quite well.
A few times now we have chewed the grass over the state of the fabric industry and he has told me of the problems getting good quality wools to weave these prestige fabrics from.

During our chats Ray did ask me to email him a couple of photos of Matt Smith wearing the jackets made from the fabrics he sells. So I picked out a couple of good images, and especially one of Matt wearing the Shetland Tweed Series Six jacket (see right).

After sending the images over, I thought I could go one better, especially since Ray had been so helpful to me over the past few weeks.
So I got him a nice framed version of the picture and presented it to him on me last trip to buy some fabric (see below). Ray was thrilled. He doesn’t often get such attention for a length of tweed!

If you look closely in the photo, you can spy THE roll of fabric from which Matt’s jacket was cut . . .

Smaller on the inside

Blimey - talk about getting things out of perspective and getting the wrong end of the stick!!

You’ve probably seen the news about the discovery of the screen-used tweed fabric for Matt Smith’s latest jacket.
It quickly caused a real buzz and was the talk of the forums.

I went to get my own supply from W Bill in London, and saw for myself the Aladdin’s cave of genuine Scottish tweeds and tartans that filled their warehouse to the rafters. I asked how many they offered, and it was estimated to be around 10,000 to 15,000 designs, not necessarily all held in-hand, but available to order.

The fabric used for the season six jacket is a genuine 100% new wool, woven in the Shetland Isles (see left).

So it was to my jaw-dropping amazement that I read the story on the Irish Independent website about how Harris Tweed Scotland were in ‘FURY’ – as the headline would have us believe – that the BBC had used an acrylic mix made in China for the jacket!!!


Soon the Daily Record picked up on the story, making the subject more emotive by headlining the apparent Chinese connection.


It wasn’t long before the national press got hold of the story, notably that bastion of Middle England: The Daily Mail.


The blame was now squarely levelled at the BBC.

Now, you need to read very much between the lines to find something near the truth to this story, and take into account the upcoming official replicas due from AbbyShot.

Last year AbbyShot produced a replica Tennant Coat, claiming it to be screen-accurate. Now I’ve done the research and know the original coat inside out and I was chronically disappointed with the result they produced. It was far from screen-accurate, missing on almost every point on the coat – honestly, don’t get me started!

So I took with a pinch of salt the news of their Matt Smith jacket, especially since the screen-used fabric from W Bill is some £60 a metre.
No images have been released of their version, and only a few details have trickled out in the commercial listings on sites due to Market the jacket.

On thing I did notice was the fabric to be used was listed as a wool/acrylic mix, leading me immediately to think they won’t be using the genuine Shetland Tweed.

It’s this fact that has been taken out of context and paraded as fact that MATT SMITH is wearing a cheap China-made replica in a nasty fabric!

The connection to the Canadian based Abby Shot was soon picked up in their home county by Postmedia reporter Randy Boswell, first in the Vancouver Sun, then syndicated in the Calgary Herald.


The same piece appeared the following day in the National Post.


Anyway, I wanted to get to the bottom of all this, so I contacted Lydia Walton at Harris tweed Scotland, who told me the following:
We were contacted by the Glasgow press agency at the weekend that said that the jacket that Dr Who is wearing in the latest series is a cheap Chinese imitation tweed - we of course were a bit put out as we thought that the time Lord would still be wearing a Harris Tweed jacket made in the time honoured way. Anyway, to cut a long story short it sounds from your research that it is not a Harris Tweed so therefore it is nothing to do with us!!!! However, buying a well made, quality Harris Tweed fabric is very simple and to buy one similar to Matt Smith vintage jacket in his first series then click on harristweedscotland.com to either buy online or find a stockist.
Good to see the press don’t put their own spin on a story to MAKE the story.

As Charles Foster Kane once said, “If the headline is big enough, it makes the news big enough.”

Season Six Tweed jacket –Prototype jacket

I said last week I wasn’t gonna wait around to make myself a Season Six tweed jacket – and I meant it!

Over the past six days I have drafted my pattern; cut my cloth; sourced the perfect elbow patches, buttons (see right) and lining; and hand-tailoered an initial prototype jacket.

Here it is – do let me know what you think!


I am very happy with the elbow patches I have sourced – they really are a good quality and just the right colour.

When I took a look at the buttons used for the jacket I couldn’t believe my eyes! They are the same buttons that had been used a few years ago on the Jackson Lake frock coat in The Next Doctor. I had sourced them a while back, so already had a supply in -hand.


I can see a few things I want to revise immediately before making another jacket. The collar needs to be redrafted, as it has come out a but high at the back. I think I was focused on the fall of the pattern on the front and missed what I was doing at the back!
Still, it’s all fixable.

Finally I made this jacket with traditional hand-tailor techniques, and I think I need to bring in a mix of methods to help the drape and hang of certain parts of the jacket.
Tweed is a unique fabric and needs cutting and handling right. Once to have mastered that it is easy stuff. I just need to show it who’s boss!

The good news keeps coming

If you follow the latest cosplay updates on the various Doctor Who forums, you’ll know what this past week saw the breaking of some great news for Eleven Doctor fans.

After identifying the Series Six Trousers exclusively on this blog, a fellow dedicated fan in Los Angeles has tracked down the exact tweed used for the Series Six jacket!


And just to confirm it is the right one, he found it from the fabric broker who supplied it to the Doctor Who costume department! No doubt there then!!

I has been tipped off about it a little while back, but kept the embargo on it until news was made public.

The supplier is W Bill in central London, and I recently went to visit their basement warehouse to see it for myself and get some of the precious fabric.

Currently located on New Burlington Street, just off Regent Street, the company was formed by William Bill in 1846 supplying haberdashery for funeral clothing. After moving to Bond Street, they expanded their range and became a specialist tweed stockist selling all round the world.
I met with Ray Hammett, who has been working there since 1946.

He had prepared for my visit by digging out the bolts of Doctor Who tweed: the Donegal used for Series Five and the Shetland Tweed that is seen in Series Six.


It’s always a great buzz to see the fabric you have been seeking right there in front of you.
The price is fixed – nearly GB£60 a metre – since it cannot be sold cheaper than the retail price charged by the stockist it is sold to, so after biting the bullet I bought enough to make myself and a couple of friends a Series Six tweed jacket.

Check back real soon, cos I don’t intend to hang around on this one!

Radio Times - first good look ofMatt’s refreshed costume

Today a new copy of the Radio Times dropped through my letterbox (see left).

With Christmas coming soon, this was not actually next weeks issue (that arrived on Tuesday), but the one after, covering the 4th to 10th December.

Right at the very back is a preview of the following issue, being the week before Christmas itself (see right).

Part of the features in that will be inevitable coverage of the Doctor Who Christmas Special, and it’s accompanied by a nice festive portrait of Matt in costume.

As far as I am aware, this is one of the clearest photos I have seen to date, showing the refreshed costume (the paparazzi photo taken during filming were distant and blurred, and official stills to date have been equally unclear).





Anyway, no sooner had this great pic been published, a rival magazine, TV & Satellite Week, put Matt Smith on their front cover, showing the fabric detail of the jacket and shirt even better! (see left)
You can download a high res version of the cover here:



And while we are about it, being a steadfast Radio Times reader I have never given TV & Satellite Week a second glance, but they have run some cracking Doctor Who covers for the new series (see below).


26th June - 2nd July 2010
All the covers for these issues are using top resolution images, which have been somewhat enhanced with sharpness and contrast.

Some, like this one, look to have been un-nesecarily messed around with.

Notice matt is wearing the blue Paul Smith shirt, with the burgundy bow tie!

But if you look closer, it has the texture of the blue one – it has been retouched to burgundy – for no good reason whatsoever!

24th - 30th April 2010

Though this is quite a nice shot of Matt in costume, it is not the correct image for this episode! (Time Of Angels, Flesh & Stone)


He is wearing the Donegal version, not the Mackenzie two-by-two dogstooth as actually seen.

Oops!

3rd - 9th April 2010

Another nice, if again somewhat over enhanced image.


This time he is wearing the Mackenzie two-by-two dogstooth jacket – but alas it is again not for this week’s episode (The Eleventh Hour).

19th Dec 2009 - 1st Jan 2010

A nice shot of David Tennant – annoying that the text covers the tie otherwise we would have a really good detail shot of the pattern!


Never mind :(

28th Nov - 4th Dec 2009
This is a good example of excessive post shoot manipulation.

The pinstripes on the suit have been played around with too much and are now a bit removed from their correct colour. The 19th December issue (see above) is a more accurate representation of their true hue.

14th - 20th Nov 2009

Again, pity (for us) about the placement of the text, otherwise we’d have another good reference picture for the tie!


4th - 10th July 2009




Thought I would put these two Torchwood covers in as well, partly to share the nice detail of the buttons on Jack’s coat – but also to show the work John Barrowman has had done on his face!

No-one looks like that in real life!

23rd - 29th May 2009

Jack’s face is way less retouched on this cover compared to the one above – but there has still been a lot of magic wand work done here!


11th - 17th April 2009

I get the feel not everything in this cover was together in the same place at the same time . . .


6th - 12th Dec 2008

Quite a crowded cover this one. Only person missing is Rosetta.


21st - 27th June 2008

Billy Piper’s had work done . . .


26th April - 2nd May 2008
 . . . . and so has Freema!

Costume index - appendix

With filming well underway for Series Six, I thought it was time to catch up on a couple of Eleventh Doctor appearances which have happened since the end of Series Five.
Doctor Who BBC Prom
Jacket Harris Tweed in Mackenzie two-by-two dogtooth weave

Shirt Burgundy Paul Smith

Trousers Dogtooth design skinny jeans from TopMan
NB. These jeans can be quickly identified by the visible metal waistband button at the top of the fly (see left)

Boots All Saints Layer boots






Doctor Who Live
Jacket Harris Tweed in Mackenzie two-by-two dogtooth weave

Shirt Burgundy Paul Smith

Trousers Dogtooth design skinny jeans from TopMan

Boots All Saints Layer boots










Death Of The Doctor
(The Sarah Jane Adventures)
Jacket Donegal Tweed

Shirt Pale Blue contrast dress shirt from TopMan

Trousers Dogtooth design skinny jeans from TopMan

Boots All Saints Layer boots

Paul Smith shirt - Floral Street trip

With the Paul Smith shirts at long last in stock, I obviously now want to get myself one.

When I got mine first time round, I wanted an XL, but annoyingly they were sold out, so I had to buy an XXL. As it happened, the shirt was a very slim, tailored fit, and the XXL fitted me fine.

This time round I thought I should get the same, but despite going online on the first day they were available, the XXLs were sold out.

I had heard that the Floral Street branch in London’s Covent Garden (see above) was due to be the only retail outlet for the shirts, so I went down then to take a look.



The shop is designed as a bit of a retro throw-back to a traditional gentleman’s outfitters (see left) with lots of dark wood and old fashioned rugs on the floor.

It took a bit of hunting around past the suits, jackets, formal shirts and jumpers, but hidden at the back of the shop, on a bottom rack, I could see a familiar striped cuff . . .
can you spot it? !

All that was left were two sized Large (see right), which would probably be a bit too snug on me.
Speaking to one of the assistants, I was told that an XXL could be ordered in for me, which as a relief.

The shop assistant also insisted on showing me a lightweight jacket in a tweed fabric, telling me this was the jacket Matt Smith also wore in the series.

I could blatantly see it wasn’t. Apart from being the wrong fabric, way too thin, the cut was wrong and it had patch pockets on the outside, not the welted with flaps as seen.

This is the same jacket that is listed alongside the shirt online, along with the £65 bow tie. It did feel like an opportunist piece of cross marketing – especially at £325.00!

It was a few days before I heard back, and it wasn’t entirely good news. Apparently, although listing the size, no shirts had been made to the XXL pattern, so I was chasing shadows.

Returning to the online shop, I found that only the Small and the XL were left in stock! So I hastily ordered an XL.

We shall see when it comes in the post . . .

All change!

I’m not referring to the Number 11 bus – but the Number Eleven Doctor!

The new series of Matt Smith episodes is currently in production, and some on location pictures have emerged, showing The Doctor’s NEW costume!

Some pictures were knocking around when the Christmas special was being lensed, but they were quite distant and not top quality. These new ones, however, have been taken by paparazzi and so are much higher res and show a lot more detail.

What they do show are the complete change of costume assembled for the new series. Now, it doesn’t at first glance look that different, but like the season 19 vs season 21 Fifth Doctor chance, it is a revisiting of the constituent parts.

So, what’s changed?



JACKET
It’s still a tweed, but it doesn’t take much to notice it is a different pattern of fabric with a much bolder checked pattern. What you might not notice at first glance is it is a three-button closure, rather than a two-button like before (see right).
The elbow patches are basically the same!

SHIRT

It’s no longer a Paul Smith shirt, and appears to be a white shirt with a pale coloured grid or gingham check. The cuffs are distinctive for a 45 ˚ chamfered corner (see above).

BOOTS
The All Saints boots are out, and some look-a-likes are in. They can be distinguished by the stitched arch across the brow of the boot (see right).

TROUSERS
These look very similar to the TopMan ones previously worn, but are of a more waxy finish and have distinctive deep back pockets (see left).

ACCESSORIES
Matt appears to be wearing the same braces as before, and a similar bow tie (bow ties are cool, btw) but it does seem to be a shade bigger than before.

The Tweed jacket

I had held off posting anything about the jackets Matt Smith has been wearing, mainly because I wanted to find a definitive way of obtaining just the right type rather than give vague, unhelpful info.

So far Matt has been seen wearing three distinctly different jackets:
Season Five
Harris Tweed
The first jacket Matt was seen wearing (for location scenes shot in July 2009 for The Time Of Angels) was a fine-checked Harris tweed (see left).

This was widely publicised at the time and soon after, included in a double-page spread in the Radio Times (see below).

It has since been revealed the fabric is a Mackenzie two-by-two dogtooth (see some of the online articles in the links at the end of this entry).

Click here to download a high resolution copy of the article: Radio Times.


The jacket has a two button closure with holed buttons; two outside pockets and a single vent at the back; as well as dark elbow patches.

This jacket was worn in: Victory Of The Daleks, The Time Of Angels, Flesh And Stone
It was also worn for the 2010 BBC Prom Concert.

Finding a Harris Tweed Jacket
The best thing to do is try and find a nice vintage one which is maybe a little worn around the edges, as these have so much more charm than a spanking new one. Apart from checking out endless charity and thrift stores, the bets place to look is eBay!

I have bought two tweeds from there, both in the screen-accurate fine-checked fabric.

The search criteria I use is as follow: eBay: Men’s Tweed Jacket.
You might want to add ‘Harris’ or “Donegal’ to the search if you want to narrow it down a bit, though you may miss the perfect jacket being sold without the name in the title due to a seller’s ignorance.

There are often several hundred jackets listed, so it can take a while to trawl through them all to find one in the right fabric; with the right cut; and importantly, your size!

Best of luck!

Custom-made Harris Tweed Jackets
If you don’t want the hassle of trawling eBay, you can cut straight to the chase by ordering a pre-made, or made-to-measure jacket.

Montague Jeffery based in Northampton were given an official license to make replicas of the Matt Smith jacket, though they have not publicised it widely.
They arranged a reweave of the Mackenzie Dogtooth, and make jackets to a range of set sizes (38, 42 and 44 chest).
They can be order directly or online through The Doctor Who Shop for £450, who also do not really give the jacket the prominence it probably deserves.

If you want to go down the houndstooth option for your jacket, you could order one made-to-measure from Magnoli Cothiers. They do a Smith Tweed Jacket (see left) which ticks a lot of boxes with the correct buttoning; pocket styles; elbow patches in a choice of options; and single back vent.

The fabric, however, is not a genuine Harris Tweed, being a good alternative but so is a compromise.

It is priced at US$395, with a surcharge of between $60 and $75 for leather elbow patch options, making a top price of US$470, equalling a hefty GB£325, so is a more pricey option given that it is far from accurate.

Donegal Tweed
After a few weeks filming, Matt was suddenly spotted wearing a different jacket, this time in a flecked, solid colour. This is a Donegal & Shetland Tweed.

No reason or explanation has been given for the change of costume between episodes, in the same way he has changed from a burgundy Paul Smith shirt to a blue one – which is very odd, since he seemed to chance-find the shirt at the end of The Eleventh Hour.
Given the difficulty the rest of us have had trying to find those shirts, it’s a wonder he got another! I’d like to know where he got it!!!!

Anyway, back to jackets.


The new jacket again has a two button closure, this time with shanked woven leather buttons; two outside pockets and a single vent at the back; as well as the usual elbow patches.

This jacket is worn in: The Eleventh Hour, The Beast Below, Vampires Of Venice, Amy’s Choice, The Hungry Earth, Cold Blood, The Lodger, The Pandorica Opens and The Big Bang.

I have wondered if the change of jacket and the episodes it is seen in has all been a massive continuity mess-up.
In the first story to be shot, The Doctor looses his jacket so he can make is escape from one of the Weeping Angels.
IF Matt wore the Harris Tweed jacket in The Eleventh Hour and The Beast Below it would make sense as he would be in the same jacket from the start, before needed a new one after Flesh And Stone.

Finding a Donegal Tweed Jacket
This one is slightly harder to readily find, but there is now a new, and exciting option, but more on that later.

So far I have not personally seen a decent match for the Donegal version on eBay. That’s not to say it doesn’t exist, but it has come to light recently that this jacket was custom made to a classic pattern using the Donegal Tweed.
This means that the jacket was not a vintage find and I wonder if the fabric had been used widely enough for this purpose for anyone to find such a jacket now.

One option is getting a jacket made to measure.

Thanks to a reader of my blog, I have been given a link to a site where you can get a custom-made jacket using what looks like a good match to the Donegal flecked fabric.

tweed-jackets-uk.co.uk has a special section for  Tweed jackets in Donegal & Shetland fabrics.

The fabric you want is AHD 05 (see left).

You’d then need to choose your size; your fitting length; the buttoning - select Two; the pocket options - select Straight Pockets; select No for the Ticket Pocket Option; and finally Centre Vent for the Vent option (see right).

The jacket costs a little under £200, but it is then a genuine Tweed jacket, made-to-measure.
Season Six
Shetland Tweed


The 2010 Christmas Special, A Christmas Carol, saw the return of Barbara Kidd as costume designer, taking over from Ray Holman.
Barbara Kidd work on the Jon Pertwee era from 1973 to 1975, and returned previously to work on Kinda with Peter Davison.
The basic look of Matt’s costume remained, but the individual elements was all revised and rebooted – most notably his jacket.

This new jacket is a bit more tailored and designed, with a three button closure, higher set lapels and distinctive striped tweed fabric.

Strangely it lacked elbow patches, but these were added prior to the full Season Six opener, The Impossible Astronaut.

Finding a Shetland Tweed Jacket
Since this jacket was custom made, it is near impossible to find a perfect match for it on eBay or the like.
However, some people have found pretty good jackets that are similar in style and pattern, though I think the cut with the higher lapels over-rides find the perfect fabric.

Luckily in late April 2011 Abby Shot announced they were to release an officially licensed replica of the Season Six jacket.
Some reports suggest an August availability, but others say late October, so it is unclear when it will on sale.
No images have as yet emerged of their version, but the publicity text states it will be a wool/acrylic mix, which suggests it will not be made from screen accurate Tweed, as this is 100% wool.

The biggest news, however, regarding the new jacket was the discovery of the original supplier of the Shetland Tweed fabric used!

It is possible to buy the fabric from W Bill, but it is very expensive, costing around £60 a metre!

Alternatively, if you want a Season Six jacket made-to-measure using THE Shetland Tweed, I can make one hand-tailored (see below).


I have researched the pattern extensively and tracked down the perfect elbow patches and buttons to finish off the job!

Drop me a line at tennantcoat@me.com 
if you want to know more about commissioning me

You may also find some of the following links useful when searching for a Tweed Jacket, and knowing your stuff before asking for one.
Official Tweed sites
Here are some online shops to buy Tweed jackets
Here are some articles that have appeared regarding Doctor Who’s regeneration of the Tweed industry
If you spot any good sources of Tweed Jackets, drop me a line and I can add it to the list.
Email me a line at 
tennantcoat@me.com so I can amend my information.
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